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<article article-type="research-article" dtd-version="1.3" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:xsi="http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema-instance" xml:lang="ru"><front><journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">atu</journal-id><journal-title-group><journal-title xml:lang="ru">Вестник Алматинского технологического университета</journal-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>The Journal of Almaty Technological University</trans-title></trans-title-group></journal-title-group><issn pub-type="ppub">2304-568X</issn><issn pub-type="epub">2710-0839</issn><publisher><publisher-name>АО "АТУ"</publisher-name></publisher></journal-meta><article-meta><article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.48184/2304-568X-2023-4-43-51</article-id><article-id custom-type="elpub" pub-id-type="custom">atu-1733</article-id><article-categories><subj-group subj-group-type="heading"><subject>Research Article</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="ru"><subject>ТЕХНОЛОГИЯ ТЕКСТИЛЯ И ОДЕЖДЫ, ДИЗАЙН</subject></subj-group><subj-group subj-group-type="section-heading" xml:lang="en"><subject>TEXTILE AND CLOTHING TECHNOLOGY, DESIGN</subject></subj-group></article-categories><title-group><article-title>Совершенствование процесса крашения шерсти натуральными красителями</article-title><trans-title-group xml:lang="en"><trans-title>Improvement of the process of dying of wool with natural dyes</trans-title></trans-title-group></title-group><contrib-group><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6490-172X</contrib-id><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Набиева</surname><given-names>И. А.</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Nabieva</surname><given-names>I. A.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>улица Шохжахон № 5</p><p>Яккасарайский район</p><p>Ташкент</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>Shokhzhakhon street No. 5</p><p>Yakkasaray district</p><p>Tashkent City</p></bio><email xlink:type="simple">niroda@bk.ru</email><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0009-0005-8028-2048</contrib-id><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Исламова</surname><given-names>З. Ш.</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Islamova</surname><given-names>Z. Sh.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>улица Шохжахон № 5</p><p>Яккасарайский район</p><p>Ташкент</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>Shokhzhakhon street No. 5</p><p>Yakkasaray district</p><p>Tashkent City</p></bio><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib><contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes"><contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0000-0003-1317-1995</contrib-id><name-alternatives><name name-style="eastern" xml:lang="ru"><surname>Хамидова</surname><given-names>В. Д.</given-names></name><name name-style="western" xml:lang="en"><surname>Khamidova</surname><given-names>V. D.</given-names></name></name-alternatives><bio xml:lang="ru"><p>улица Шохжахон № 5</p><p>Яккасарайский район</p><p>Ташкент</p></bio><bio xml:lang="en"><p>Shokhzhakhon street No. 5</p><p>Yakkasaray district</p><p>Tashkent City</p></bio><xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff-1"/></contrib></contrib-group><aff-alternatives id="aff-1"><aff xml:lang="ru">Ташкентский институт текстильной и легкой промышленности<country>Узбекистан</country></aff><aff xml:lang="en">Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry<country>Uzbekistan</country></aff></aff-alternatives><pub-date pub-type="collection"><year>2023</year></pub-date><pub-date pub-type="epub"><day>22</day><month>12</month><year>2023</year></pub-date><volume>0</volume><issue>4</issue><fpage>43</fpage><lpage>52</lpage><permissions><copyright-statement>Copyright &amp;#x00A9; Набиева И.А., Исламова З.Ш., Хамидова В.Д., 2023</copyright-statement><copyright-year>2023</copyright-year><copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Набиева И.А., Исламова З.Ш., Хамидова В.Д.</copyright-holder><copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Nabieva I.A., Islamova Z.S., Khamidova V.D.</copyright-holder><license xml:lang="ru" license-type="creative-commons-attribution" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" xlink:type="simple"><license-p>Данная работа распространяется под лицензией Creative Commons Attribution 4.0.</license-p></license><license xml:lang="en" license-type="creative-commons-attribution" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/" xlink:type="simple"><license-p>This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.</license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://atu.ejournal.kz/jour/article/view/1733">https://atu.ejournal.kz/jour/article/view/1733</self-uri><abstract><p>   В данной статье описывается процесс крашения обесцвеченных-отбеленных шерстяных волокон натуральными красителями с использованием в качестве протравы солей алюминия, железа и меди (изучены колористические особенности процесса крашения киноварью). Процесс окрашивания осуществлялся в трех различных последовательностях: предварительная обработка протравами, затем окрашивание в растворе натурального красителя (I); однованное крашение в растворе красителя и протравы (II); крашение в растворе натурального красителя с последующей обработкой протравами (III). Влияние последовательности окрашивания на показатели качества окраски оценивали по данным, определенным при стандартной освещенности D65 на лабораторном колориметре. В статье показана зависимость процессов крашения шерсти натуральными красителями Мареной (Rubia tinctorum L.), Куркумой (Cúrcuma lónga) и Кармином (Мinium - киноварь) от присутствия и места солей-протрав в технологической проводке. Сам краситель Марена дает золотистый цвет, а в присутствии сульфата меди и железа дает бледно-коричневый цвет, а бихромат калия дает яркий насыщенный красный цвет. При крашении шерсти красителем Кармином в присутствии в качестве протрав солей железа и меди карминовая шерсть дает в 1,5-2,5 раза более интенсивные темно-красные цвета в зависимости от способа окраски, чем при окраске без солей. Изучена зависимость интенсивности окраски от рН среды с учетом того, что рН процесса крашения влияет на прочностные и колористические параметры окрасок, получаемых на шерстяном волокне натуральными красителями. Был проведен ИК-спектральный анализ образцов, окрашенных исследуемыми красителями в сравнении с неокрашенным волокном шерсти для выявления характера возникновения связей шерстяного волокна с натуральными красителями.</p></abstract><trans-abstract xml:lang="en"><p>   This article describes the process of dyeing bleached wool fibers with natural dyes using aluminum, iron and copper salts as a mordant (the coloristic features of the cinnabar dyeing process are studied). The staining process was carried out in three different sequences: pre-treatment with mordants, then staining in a natural dye solution (I); one-bath dyeing in a solution of dye and mordant (II); dyeing in a solution of natural dye, followed by treatment with mordants (III). The influence of the staining sequence on the quality of staining was evaluated by data determined under standard illumination D65 on a laboratory colorimeter. The article shows the dependence of the processes of dyeing wool with natural dyes Madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), Turmeric (Cúrcuma lónga) and Carmine (Minium - cinnabar) on the presence and place of pickling salts in the technological wiring. Madder dye itself gives a golden color, and in the presence of copper sulfate and iron gives a pale brown color, and potassium dichromate gives a bright saturated red color. When dyeing wool with Carmine dye in the presence of iron and copper salts as mordants, carmine wool gives 1.5-2.5 times more intense dark red colors, depending on the dyeing method, than when dyed without salts. The dependence of the color intensity on the pH of the medium has been studied, taking into account the fact that the pH of the dyeing process affects the strength and color parameters of the colors obtained on wool fiber with natural dyes. An IR spectral analysis of samples dyed with the studied dyes was carried out in comparison with undyed wool fiber to identify the nature of the occurrence of bonds between wool fiber and natural dyes.</p></trans-abstract><kwd-group xml:lang="ru"><kwd>шерсть</kwd><kwd>кератин</kwd><kwd>колорирование</kwd><kwd>природный краситель</kwd><kwd>колористические характеристики</kwd></kwd-group><kwd-group xml:lang="en"><kwd>wool</kwd><kwd>keratin</kwd><kwd>coloring</kwd><kwd>natural dye</kwd><kwd>coloristic characteristics</kwd></kwd-group></article-meta></front><back><ref-list><title>References</title><ref id="cit1"><label>1</label><citation-alternatives><mixed-citation xml:lang="ru">Safapour S., Sadeghi-Kiakhani M. “Chitosan-cyanuric chloride hybrid as an efficient novel bio-mordant for improvement of cochineal natural dye absorption on wool yarns” Vol.10, Issue 1, 2(2019): pp. 81-88.</mixed-citation><mixed-citation xml:lang="en">Safapour S. 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